Saturday, July 31, 2010

Walking the Abel Tasman

The Abel Tasman is the third Great Walk that Keith and I have done together-Keith did four as I was more than happy to let him do one without me! We both thought this one would be a piece of cake. Literally, just a walk on the beach-especially compared to the Kepler and Routeburn.

We stated our adventure Tuesday morning armed with bellies full of a hot full breakfast that Keith whipped up and a two hour shuttle ride a head of us. We were picked up by Peter who runs Nelson Lakes Shuttles and we were happily the only people in the van. We had a great ride to the beginning of the trail as Peter was full of information about tramping in the area and he was just as excited as I was to stop and take pictures of rainbows-don't get that on many shuttles!
From New Zealand
Most people walk the Abel Tasman in the summer and by most people I mean about 30,000 people swarming in this remote, beautiful place. By doing it in winter it meant that the weather was a little more tricky, but we didn't have to share it with as many people. We also learned that most people don't actually walk the whole 54 kilometers-they take water taxis, hike for a day, then hop back on a water taxi; or they kayak for a little bit...everyone we talked to was not walking the whole trail-but we were doing the whole thing and in less time than most.
From New Zealand
We stared on a slightly rainy but great day at Wainui: the very beginning. It seems most people skip pretty much our whole first day, which is a shame. It was full of great views and lots of seals. At one point I was running backwards on the beach trying to take pictures of seals that were swimming away from us-this was not a very coordinated effort with a big backpack on in the sand.
From New Zealand
From New Zealand
We made a quick side trip to Separation Point, where we saw more seals. While I was resting my feet, Keith explored the point a little more and got up close and personal with a couple of pretty big-yet adorable seals.
From New Zealand
The first day ended up being a little harder than expected-we hiked for 8 hours and the last half hour had to be the worst....we had to cross a large estuary and while it was low tide it still meant hiking through freezing cold water with sharp shells getting in your sandals. And while there was whimpering involved, I am happy to say I didn't actually cry. There was only one other person at the Awaroa Hut-an Israeli kid who couldn't tell us which direction he came from on the track-whatever, I was exhausted.

The second day was only about 7 hours...exhausting again! If I were to recommend this hike I would tell people to do it in 5 days and just take your time hiking up the mountains, time your tide crossings perfectly, and enjoy the beach: we did none of those. On the second day we had not one, not two, but three water crossings....freezing cold water crossings with sandflies attacking (I still have a giant bite on my forehead).
From New Zealand
This meant lots of stopping and changing in and out of sandals and boots. It also gave Keith a chance to rock the classic boots, wool socks, shorts look-lovely!
From New Zealand
When we finally got to the Anchorage Hut, we found it slightly more crowded-but I really don't know how many people were actually there. There we 7 of us hanging out in the heated common room and a gaggle of Asians in the cold bunk room we were in-I don't think they ever left the bunk room and were up and out by 5 am-it was very weird.

What a beautiful day for our last day of tramping in New Zealand!
From New Zealand
That day is now a contender for Best Day in New Zealand! Our hike out only took 3 hours instead of 4, so we were in the car by 11:30 and off to the next place! We made it to Maruia Hot Springs at exactly 3-when we could check in to our room! Maruia Springs is a Japanese style hot pools. After quick showers to wash off three day hiking, we jumped into the private hot pool for a little bit-I had to get to my massage and facial at 5...why I didn't always get a massage after doing long hikes is really beyond me! And this was the best massage ever! After being massaged, stretched and generally pampered for about an hour and half it was time for a delicious Japanese dinner-this place was heaven!

Oh, and did I mention we got to wear kimonos the whole time!
From New Zealand
From New Zealand
I'm typing this in the Jailhouse Backpackers in Chirstchurch on our very last day in New Zealand. Our room is tiny and full of clothes and other junk we've accumulated and we need to get it all together and check out in about an hour...hope this works! And we sold the car!

New Zealand, it's been great, but we've got to move on to Tonga for some real relaxing!

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Let's get this pary started!

Since I blogged last, we have moved out of our flat in Alex (finally!!), Keith has finished working, we have sold almost everything we own (anyone want to buy a car?), and are now on vacation 24/7-for at least the next couple weeks.

We started out from Otautau (The Heart of Western Southland), where Keith spent his last days working, on Saturday morning and by evening we were almost all the way up the west coast in Hokitika. There we got to watch a beautiful sunset and eat half-way descent pizza (I would give just about anything for a real Chicago style deep dish though!). In just a few hours we drove from the cold, to being able to walk along the beach an not freeze!
From New Zealand
The next day was another long driving day as we were heading towards Nelson. There were a few familiar sites along the way and the fact the we stopped at Pancake Rocks and I was very happy I didn't suffer from any PTSD induced flashbacks of the ridiculous pain I was in when we were there last!
From New Zealand
After a crazy amount of driving, we finally made it to Nelson! Now is the time for a little relaxing before we start another 3 days of hiking. We started with a crazy huge meal at the House of Ales...and thats kind of where it ended-I could barely walk back to our backpackers I was so full! There we are laying around reading barely able to move by about 8 pm, while all the young folks were just starting the evening-when did we get old?!?!

The next day was a little more exciting with a quick trip to the Center of New Zealand.
From New Zealand
And on the a few winieries. We had to practice restraint since we can't just pack our bags full of wine to go to Tonga and there is only so much we can drink in the next couple days. We stopped at Seifried Winery, which is supposed to be one of the oldest in New Zealand, at Te Mania where we bought probably the cheapest bottle of really good wine we have since have been in New Zealand and finally at Neudorf Winery that not only had great wine but also a great place to hang out and have lunch.
From New Zealand
At the end of the day we made it to our backpackers The Barn (one of the best backpackers we have stayed at!)in http://www.barn.co.nz/ and the Able Tasman National Park. We even had a view of the trail from our room!
From New Zealand
The plan was to stay the night there, then get a shuttle the next day to the beginning of the track and walk back to our car. It only took us three days and that beat up car never looked so good by the time I saw it again!

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Ice, Ice baby (and snow and glaciers)

Keith had been looking forward to this weekend for a while now. The splurge for his 30th birthday was heli-boarding on Mt Cook-the highest mountain in New Zealand. There was a chance that Keith wouldn't be able to go heli-boarding-due to either weather conditions or because there weren't enough people going (minimum of 3 people). We ended up with 2 beautifully clear days and, unfortunately, no one else signed up to go heli-boarding.
From New Zealand
So, what to do? We decided that we should give a scenic flight a go. I don't know why, but I find helicopters terrifying and was very happy that we ended up on a ski plane instead of a helicopter! We did the 'Glacier Highlights' flight: Your flight with us begins in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. Fly the full length of the Tasman Glacier, passing Aoraki/Mount Cook before landing on the Tasman Glacier, the longest glacier in New Zealand. Once airborne the flight home features the spectacular Hochstetter Icefall. I felt the need to put that there to remind myself of what we were supposed to see, since I really didn't get to see it. Almost all the 'sights' were on the right and I was, sadly, on the left of the plane, trapped next to a giant man who was almost sitting on top of me and I could barely see a darn thing. Keith was in the front of the plane, so at least I got to hand my camera up to him, so I got to see some of the views on my camera after we landed.
From New Zealand
From New Zealand
One of the few times it was good to be on the left was the view over the mountains to the Tasman Sea. I really had no idea that we were so close to the west coast!
From New Zealand
We landed on one of the many glaciers in the Southern Alps. The flight gave me an appreciation for just how massive the mountains, the glaciers, really the whole area is. But also how close everything is-we were so close to the other glaciers we had been to on the west coast: Franz Joseph and Fox-they were just on the other side of these mountains! It was also really nice to be on the top of a mountain without having to climbed it, although it always does feel a  little better to earn the view than to just have it handed to you!
From New Zealand
From New Zealand
I had never been on such a small plane before or a ski plane for that matter. The skis in the front of the plane help the plane land in the snow-although from my front seat on the way back, it looked like they helped a little on take off in the snow too.
From New Zealand
Just before we were about to land, I got hit with a massive headache-Keith thinks it was from the quick change in altitude. Anyway, I spent the afternoon nursing my headache while I checked out the exhibits at the museum and curled up with tea and book enjoying the view from our hotel. Keith, of course, went for a hike, which he reported back, I wouldn't have liked anyway-especially since he probably needed an ice ax and crampons for part of the time (but had neither)!
From New Zealand
The next morning was bright and clear, so we were off to hike to Hooker Glacier terminal lake. The trail started pretty icy and stayed that way a lot of the time. After having gone to both the more touristy Fox and Franz Joseph glaciers, it was amazing that we could walk to this one without passing bus loads of tourists.
From New Zealand
From New Zealand
While we were hiking towards the glacier along the lake, we heard this constant noise. At first we thought it was a plane or helicopter in the area, but it was so long and consistent we decided it couldn't have been-was it the ice? We think so. It did sound like a constant, low motor running-ice makes that noise? That's crazy! The lake was also making normal (to me) crunchy, ice sounds. Who knew that glaciers and the lakes were they end were so noisy!
From New Zealand
From New Zealand
We had heard a few rockfalls on the hike but on the hike back we heard another sound that we didn't really expect to hear-an avalanche! It was a pretty little avalanche in the scheme of things, but still! We could just see the snow and debris falling down the face of a mountain maybe about a mile or so from us.
From New Zealand
We are now in Alex-less than 2 weeks of work left for Keith! We are really ready to start the vacation time we have planned before we get back to the States-although what I am really ready for is to see BJ!

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Get into the groove!

It was pretty hard to believe that this weekend was the 4th of July! It is the dead of winter here and I'm dreaming of the sun, since I haven't seen anything but gray and fog in the past four days. But we're just unlucky here in Alex and a short drive in any direction will take you glorious sunshine-even if it is cold out!

We took a drive this weekend up to the Waiorau Snow Farm for a little cross country skiing. The drive there was much more epic than we expected. The Snow Farm is about 13 kilometers off the main road and it just climbs and climbs and climbs! I have no idea how much elevation we gained, but we essentially drove over a mountain-I don't really know what we expected, but not that!

We had great timing, as we sometimes do, and got there on a special weekend. Locals 'Give it a go' weekend was going on and while aren't really locals (but, really, we kind of are!), we got to take part in the special. For only $20 each we got all our rental stuff (boots, skis and such) and free lessons if we wanted them. One might think that since I've never cross country skied before that I might take a free lesson-but no. Instead I have to learn the hard way-from Keith telling me what I should be doing while I'm climbing up a hill on my hands and knees (with my skis still on). The good part was that just about everyone else there was a beginner too. This meant there were lots of other people falling down all over the place-not just me!
From New Zealand
We had a really beautiful and 'warm' day. Although I would have been a little warmer had my gloves not been wet from falling in the snow the whole time. Honestly I kind of hated cross country skiing at first, but slowly as I got a little better, it kind of grew on me. I liked that they had grooves for the skis so I could just hop in there and go-while there really is no way to stop yourself while in these grooves (learned the hard way), I think it's the best way for me to go!
From New Zealand
I didn't last as long on the slopes/trails as Keith did-the old hand got in the way-I did get to check out the rest of what the Snow Farm had to offer. Out front there were a bunch of kids (and adults) tubing...I wanted to go tubing!! Alas I didn't, but man it looked fun!
From New Zealand
After a whole afternoon of skiing, we were starving and there was only one place on our minds: Fergburger in Queenstown. We had eaten there once before. It was after we did the Routeburn and as usual,we were starving. That time it was incredibly hot out, we sat outside sweating like mad and completely devouring our burgers. I'm pretty sure I didn't work as hard for this burger, but it still tasted divine!
From New Zealand
Amazing burger, amazing chips, cold beer-what else can you ask for? Nothing!
From New Zealand
Now we have our usual weird week. Keith is in Roxborough, only about 30 mins away, this week. I was planning on going with him, but he's on call 2 nights, so he's just staying there when he's on call. I was planning on going out there at least one of those nights, but after Keith told me how cold the house is and how he spent the evening standing in front of the heater-I decided I would take advantage of the time and get things organized and cleaned out in our little flat in Alex-we're only here for another 2 1/2 weeks! And maybe, just maybe we'll have to get cross country skiing gear to play around with when we get home.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Goodbye, Ranfurly

It seems appropriate that our last week in Ranfurly has been the best week in Ranfurly! At least in my opinion! Wehen it comes to Ranfurly, we have a routine: I usually can't get into our flat until about noon and we get here at about 8:30 am, so I have some time to kill. When the weather is great that's not a problem, but now it's winter and well, usually not so great. Fortunately, Monday was an exception and it was a beautiful-all be it cold morning.

With hours to kill, I decided that I wanted to spend the morning in St. Bathans. We had been there in summer and I was curious to see what it looked like covered in snow with the sun rising over the mountains at the early hour of 9 am. Shortly after I got to this sleepy little town and parked by Blue Lake (only car there), I was greeted by an adorable puppy that acted like he'd been waiting for me all morning. After our initial hellos of him jumping up on me and giving me giving kisses, I set out to do there little trail around the lake and the pups decided that he was going to come with me. After walking a couple hundred meters the dog (I thought of him as Buddy) took off and started barking like mad. Immediately my mind goes to some crazy scenario that the dog was pulling a Lassie and trying to get me to help his owner that had fallen in the snow or something, so I hurry towards the barking and of course it's nothing. Well, not nothing, it's his tennis ball. We spent the rest of the morning walking on the trail, playing fetch and enjoying the scenery.
From New Zealand
From New Zealand
I finished the trail and thought about going to the Vulcan Hotel for a hot drink, but they were closed and it was still kind of early to go back and well, long story short, I was manipulated by an adorable dog, who even was the same colors as BJ-although a little bigger, to do the trail again. What can I say, I had a great morning! Just don't tell BJ I cheated on him. Of course right when I got back, I found out that I could have gotten into our flat first thing in the morning-I'm glad I missed that message!
From New Zealand
I didn't really have any plans for the week, so when Keith called and said Elaine (who works at the clinic) was wondering if I would be interested in an all day felting class at the local art center, I said of course! I had been introduced to felting by Sandi, one of the locums docs wives, who like me had thought about trying to learn how to knit and gave up after about 30 seconds. Felting is quite a bit easier, with more immediate gratification-aka more my style. What we learned how to do is called Nuno felting, a 15 step process Japanese felting technique that combines shear fiber (such a silk) and wool to make lightweight garments and other items, like scarves, which is what I made. This is a very wet and labor intensive project that takes pretty much all day. Like most of the ladies there, I really didn't know what what we were doing, which just made it more fun.
From New Zealand
The above pic is about half way though the process...I should have taken one at the end! I will at some point. Since it was all day, food was provided-and not just lunch-snacks, truffles, tea, other homemade goodies-these ladies really know how to put on an meal and I came away from it with a recipe for truffles!

We had been meaning to go curling in Naseby pretty much since we got here. While they have indoor curling year-round, we were hoping this late in winter there would be outdoor curling-but they didn't! Keith always gets Wednesday afternoons off in Ranfurly, but he's still on call. Of course, as soon as I had made the booking for 2pm, the phone started ringing off the hook. We had to change our booking and felt very lucky his phone didn't ring the whole time we were curling.
From New Zealand
As soon as you get to the Naseby Indoor Curling Rink, you get sent upstairs to watch a video to teach you about curling-good thing since we really didn't know a thing about the sport. While it is informative, I think they could have talked a little more about scoring-we kind of didn't get that part. After watching the video, we got one on one instruction as to how to slide the stone. There are a few different methods of delivery and anyone who has ever seen Keith bowling knows that he has been preparing for the slide technique (like the do in the Olympics) for his whole life. The woman instructing was shocked at Keith's natural talent-she can't even do the slide-'I end up on my arse every time!'
From New Zealand
Since real curling is 4 people agaist 4 people and we were only 2 people, we just had fun learning. It is actually really hard to get the stone all the way down, without over shooting the target-by about the 4th round we were getting close! Apparently we were pretty good though since we could get the stones all the way down without sweeping, although we did sweep just for the fun of it. I wonder if Keith will get called up to the U.S Curling team? ;-)
From New Zealand
I did not get the slide down, but still rocked at curling!
From New Zealand
Keith has been working Maniototo Hospital and clinic while in Ranfurly. Although I think he would argue that what they call a hospital is barely a hospital, it seems to work for them! All the time we're there, Keith is on call. I know it always hangs over him when we're there and whenever we plan to go out and do anything is when Keith gets called (like curling!). The people at the clinic have been really great and Keith always comes home with pretty crazy stories, so it's always been a good time!
From New Zealand
And they have a pretty nice view from the hospital. I think I would just look outside all day and not get any work done!
From New Zealand
After a good bye lunch with the ladies from the clinic, we were off. Only three more weeks of work for Keith!
From New Zealand